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Step by Step: Phuket's restaurant reckoning, a recipe for disaster?

Step by Step: Phuket's restaurant reckoning, a recipe for disaster?

OPINION: The ‘for sale’ sign hanging outside the once-heralded ‘Fire & Smoke’ restaurant in Cherng Talay is a stark reminder of the harsh realities facing Phuket’s food scene. This isn’t an isolated incident. Across the island, restaurants are struggling, and many are shuttering their doors for good. With over 600,000 closures across Thailand in the past three years, the industry is undeniably in crisis, and Phuket, despite its tourist appeal, is no exception.

opinioneconomicsDining
By Simon Causton

Sunday 6 October 2024 09:00 AM


Image: Simon Causton

Image: Simon Causton

The reasons are multifaceted. Soaring food prices are squeezing already tight margins. The war in Ukraine, coupled with volatile global markets, has sent the cost of essential ingredients skyrocketing. Imported goods like cheese, pasta, and wine – staples for many Phuket establishments – are becoming prohibitively expensive. Locally sourced produce isn’t immune either, with the cost of living crisis, unpredictable weather patterns and rising transportation costs impacting availability and price.

Adding fuel to the fire is a severe labour shortage. Thailand’s economic recovery has opened up new opportunities, particularly in the freelance sector, luring workers away from traditional hospitality jobs. The new minimum wage increase, while a positive step for workers’ rights, is another financial burden for restaurant owners already struggling to balance the books. Finding and retaining experienced staff is a constant battle, and many venues are forced to rely on inexperienced, often transient, workers from Myanmar and elsewhere, impacting service quality and customer satisfaction.

Then there’s the ‘Italianisation’ of Phuket. Seemingly on every corner, another pizzeria or trattoria pops up, offering the same tired menu of pizzas and pastas. This oversaturation dilutes the market, forcing businesses to compete on price rather than quality, further eroding profit margins. While Italian food undeniably has its place, this lack of diversity and originality stifles culinary creativity and leaves diners yearning for something different.

Sadly, many new entrants into Phuket’s restaurant scene are ill-prepared for the challenges. Enticed by the island’s perceived glamour and the dream of running a laid-back beachside bistro, inexperienced foreign investors often underestimate the complexities of the business. Poor planning, inadequate financial backing, and a lack of understanding of local regulations are a recipe for failure.

Marketing and promotion are often overlooked or executed poorly. In today’s digital age, a strong online presence is crucial, yet many restaurants rely solely on word-of-mouth or outdated marketing strategies. A poorly designed website, lack of social media engagement, and an absence of targeted advertising can render a restaurant invisible in the crowded marketplace.

Even established venues are feeling the pinch. High-end restaurants, including those boasting Michelin stars, have seen revenue plummet by as much as 40%. Many are dipping into personal savings just to keep afloat, a precarious situation that is unsustainable in the long term. The decline in large-scale events and corporate bookings has further exacerbated the problem, depriving restaurants of a crucial revenue stream.

So, what’s the solution? First, restaurants need to adapt. Embracing technology is crucial, not just for online ordering and delivery services, but also for inventory management, cost control, and targeted marketing. Restaurateurs need to understand their customers, their preferences, and their spending habits. This data can be used to tailor menus, create enticing promotions, and ultimately drive sales.

Second, originality and authenticity are key. Phuket is a melting pot of cultures, yet this diversity is rarely reflected in its restaurant offerings. There’s a growing demand for authentic, regional Thai cuisine, as well as international flavours beyond the ubiquitous Italian staples. Restaurants that offer something unique, something that tells a story, are more likely to capture the attention of discerning diners.

Third, collaboration is essential. The restaurant industry is often seen as cutthroat, but there’s strength in unity. Sharing best practices, pooling resources for marketing initiatives, and even collaborating on events can benefit everyone. Industry associations like the Thai Restaurant Association can play a vital role in supporting businesses, providing training, and advocating for policies that support the sector.

The challenges facing Phuket’s restaurant industry are significant, adapting to survive and thrive is key. There are great examples of restaurants that are doing great but sadly many will go up in ‘Fire & Smoke’ in the near future.


Simon Causton is a long-time Phuket resident, founder of Citadel Phuket and author of ‘The Phuket Periodical’ newsletter. X (Twitter): @SimonCauston