For extra fun, we did this road trip on bicycles. Regardless of your preference between two wheels or four, you’ll discover a Thailand where sea dragons turned to stone, jungle paths lead to flowers that smell worse than durian, and the kingdom’s most unusual residents - pink dolphins - become unexpected companions. Some of our highlights on this road trip included:
Phang Nga Bay: Where James Bond goes for geology
James Bond may have visited “Khao Phing Kan” (now forever known as “James Bond Island”) in The Man with the Golden Gun, but what Agent 007 failed to mention in his report was that these dramatic limestone formations were once coral reefs.
Around 250 million years ago, these marine skyscrapers submerged beneath ancient seas before tectonic shifts dramatically elevated them. The locals have a more poetic explanation: the formations are petrified dragons who tried to steal the moon.
Approaching these giants on two wheels offers a perspective motorists miss - the gradual reveal of each karst as you round corners on coastal roads. I’ve visited Phang Nga Bay at least 50 times over the years. Each visit reveals new secrets: hidden lagoons accessible only at certain tides, caves with ancient wall paintings missed by hurried tour groups, and the ever-changing play of light on limestone that transforms the seascape hourly.
Koh Lanta: The island where time pedals backward
Ferrying to Koh Lanta adds nautical adventure to this classic road trip. The island’s sea gypsies (Chao Leh) maintain a village where bicycles are modified with outriggers for beach transportation during low tide. These contraptions, cobbled together from driftwood and recycled plastic, have never been patented despite their ingenious design.
Meanwhile, the island’s lighthouse keeper maintains what might be Thailand’s most peculiar museum - a collection of messages in bottles that have washed ashore over decades, including one purportedly from a Soviet submarine commander that the Thai government has never officially acknowledged.
Khanom: Pink dolphins and supernatural bananas
Cycling the coastal route to Khanom tests both endurance and gearing choices, but delivers the prize of Thailand’s pink dolphins, which are’t born pink but gradually change colour as they age - the marine equivalent of humans going gray, but with far more style. It is possible to sight dolphins from the road, but we were too focused on the pedaling to spot any of these sensitive marine creatures during our ride.
The area’s specialty fruit, kluay nam wa (cultivated bananas), becomes a cycling superfood when you’re 500km into your journey. Whether or not their supposed supernatural properties (when harvested during a full moon) affect performance is debatable, but their quick energy and potassium make them the perfect natural gel alternative.
Khao Sok National Park: The Jurassic Park Thailand never advertises
The approach to Khao Sok National Park features some of the trip’s most challenging ascents - but the ancient rainforest canopy provides blessed shade. This rainforest is older than the Amazon by about 50 million years and cycling through it feels like pedaling back in time. Whether you’re exploring the park by foot or on the water, you’re in for some surprises - like the giant Rafflesia flowers that smell like decomposing flesh, and glowing fungi that locals use as natural nightlights.
The artificial lake at Khao Sok National Park, known officially as Cheow Lan Lake, is one of Thailand’s most spectacular hidden treasures. In 1982 when the Ratchaprapha Dam was built on the Klong Saeng River, this yielded a vast body of emerald-green water. What makes this lake truly remarkable is its otherworldly landscape. Hundreds of limestone karst formations rise dramatically from the water, creating a scene that looks like it belongs in a fantasy film.
How we travelled
We joined Siam Bike Tour’s 12-day Southern Thailand Cycling Tour, a moderate-grade tour involving 1,000km of cycling and 5,000m of cumulative climbing over ten stages. Siam Bike Tours delivers excellent concierge-style support. This includes cold towels during breaks and daily shoe, helmet and water bottle cleaning service, plus full mechanical and logistical support.
The tour originates and ends in Cherng Talay and traverses Phang Nga, Krabi and Surat Thani provinces. The tour also visits Krabi, Surat Thani, Khao Lak and other intermediate towns. The island’s southern roads are remarkably well-paved yet mostly gloriously empty, a cyclist’s dream.
Our two favorite hotels on this road trip are the Avanti Plus on Koh Lanta and the Khanom Beach Resort in Khanom. We enjoyed spacious and well-appointed private villas at both properties, but the Avanti offered the perk of a private plunge pool overlooking the water – a welcome respite after a hard, hot day of cycling.
Adventurer and author Todd Miller has explored more than 115 countries. He authored the Amazon bestseller ENRICH: Create Wealth in Time, Money, and Meaning, His writing has featured in CNBC, Fast Company, and Newsweek. www.enrich101.com